السلام عليكم ورحمة الله وبركاتهLength
أعزائي هاهو الجزء الثالث من رسك الأنمي وهو متعلق برسم الملا بس الدروس كلها أجنبية يمكنكم الدخول على محرك البحث google ومن أدوات اللغة ترجمة المواضيع هاكم الدرو وبالله نستعين:
What you first got to consider when drawing a cape is the length of it. Length size may vary starting from the left - Extra Short, Short, Medium, and Long.
Most characters usually has the Medium and Long lengths though you may go for something different and try the shorter two versions. Think about it; it would be pretty bizarre if a knight has a short cape!
The next thing you should consider about a cape is it's width. Width may vary from thin (i.e. exact shoulder length or a bit smaller), medium (i.e. a little wider than the shoulder - passing the shoulder a bit), and wide (i.e. completely covering the shoulder, possibly so far as covering the whole body too).
Most of the times, characters have the wide cape as opposed to the thin and medium widths.
(The picture is a back view of a person)
When drawing a cape, you have to consider gravity and force. Gravity constantly pulls down on a cape as seen in the middle example. In this case, there is usually folds near the neck where all the cloth is gathered in semi-circle type lines and several straight lines going downwards nearer the shoulders.
It becomes a bit more complicated when more than one force is pulling on an object. Consider the other two examples on the left and the right. In the left most picture, the person is pulling outwards. These two new forces are more than gravity so as folds now have to be drawn towards the higher force - the hands.
Meanwhile, the right most example has the person pulling upwards. Again, folds have to move or be drawn according to that force. Notice that at the bottom, the cape moves upwards a bit since the rest of the cape is being pulled up.
(The picture is a back view of a person)
Another force that you have to consider is the wind.
First thing you have to consider is where is the wind blowing? Up? Down? Left? Right? ...?
From there, draw the cape accordingly. The right example, for instance, has the wind blowing from behind the person which makes the cape "outline" the character's figure and wrap itself around the person.
The left example, on the other hand, has the cape flapping upwards. When drawing a cape like this, all you have to do is draw rounded lines that will in the end roughly look like a triangle except with curvy edges.
There are several types of capes: Low Collar, High Collar, Hooded, and Plain.
Low Collars are until just beneath the ear.
High Collars are anything higher than the ear.
Hooded capes have hoods, of course.
Plain capes are just that - plain. Nothing fancy.
As far as drawing the Collared capes, you just basically draw two lines on the left and right side of the face which widen as you go upwards. It will look a bit like a triangle in the end. To finish it off, just draw a straight line behind the head that connects that two "triangles" on either side of the face.
Plain capes are nothing fancy - think of the drawing a shirt except that it opens in the middle.
Drawing hoods are a bit tricky but all you really need to keep in mind is that:
a. There are two "circles" around the head. One "circle" near the face and another "circle" farther from the face.
b. Leave enough room around the head, especially as you get nearer the neck as gravity makes the hood rest on the head and the rest hang down.
c. When drawing the hood down, you will have to draw folds that are slightly above the rest of the cape folds to show that there is a hood attached.
Another important aspect of a cape is how it is held. The typical ways are two points, part of armor, and one point.
Two points have two buttons or something similar on both sides of the cape which is joined by anything that can pull the two sides together.
Part of armor is when the cape itself is attached to the armor -- typically on top of the shoulder guards.
One point is when the cape wraps around the person completely and is held at one point.
Holders are usually jewelry, cords, metal pieces, and clasps of some kind.
Now comes the fun part! When it comes to designing your cape, you can get pretty creative... or not. The following three are examples; the left drawing being the overall picture while the right drawing being a select close up.
The left example is a fancier version of the two point hold with a plate at center with an engraving and two tassels on either end.
The bottom left is a closer look at a one point hold using a ribbon.
Below is a cape which has some markings on the cape itself. You can a have a simple design with solid lines or go crazy with more intricate designs.
All in all, the look of your cape depends on your imagination but if you get stuck, take a look at some anime fantasy characters to get you started.
Parts of an Armor
First of all, a run down of parts of the armor starting on the head: (a) helmet, (b) shoulder guards, (c) breast plate, (d) guantlets a.k.a. arm braces, (e) thigh guards, and (f) boots. Note: Technically, each piece of armor has various other more rightful names - shoulder guard is a pauldron for instance - but for this tutorial, I'm keeping the names simple so as it is reconizable instantly. For a more detailed look into armor, check out Pictorial Glossary of Armor Terms.
How Much Armor Does Your Character Need?
This is the crux of every fantasy character that you make wearing armor. The more armor the character is wearing, the slower he/she becomes (unless the character is superhuman or in the case of Slayers Gorgeous ::spoiler:: - the armor is made of paper!!) ::end spoiler:: and the better fit (think muscular) he/she becomes as well.
Here is a rundown of some combinations you may use when putting together an armor:
(1) Full Armor - all parts a to f
(2) Heavy Armor - all parts except a
(3) Moderate Armor - b, c, e, and maybe d too
(4) Light Armor - b, c, and maybe d too
(5) Minimum Armor - d alone, b alone, or c alone
(6) No Armor - no piece from a to f
Of course you can make your own combination of armor but these are the usual combos.
The best advice I can possibly give you is to make sure you draw armor that will actually work! Armor is for protection not for show! There are special armor made fancier for the more important people; gold plated, etc.; for kings and nobles but otherwise - keep it simple for the ordinary folks.
Unlike popular belief that armor was heavy and cumbersome it was not. A well trained knight will wear a full armor and fight in one easily. Also, knights usually know how to use various weapons besides the sword; they can also use bow and arrow, spears, axes, hammers, lances, knives, etc. If your character is not a knight - then show it via less armor, less knowledge of weapons, etc.
Now for the fun part: designs on the armor. OK, I know I said don't get fancy and that's what I meant. You may put some decoration on the armor just as long as it does not interfere with the wearers ability to fight! Anything else looks too impractical, and out-of-place don't you think?
Things to Change or Not
(1) Emblem on breast plate
(2) Grooves on shoulder guards
(3) Jewelry on armor
(4) Fancy color: gold, green, silver, black, red, etc.
(5) Shape of the armor piece
For some inspiration on armor, check out the following links:
Met Museum: Arms & Armor
Arador Armour Library
Armour & Weapons
Arms & Armor
You may also check out fantasy anime like Magic Knight Rayearth and Lodoss Wars or even films like Lord of the Rings.
Look at the picture to the left. Which one looks right to you? The face with the square glasses or the round one?
If you said the square one, good for you! Now, why did you choose it?
The right one, when it comes down to drawing it, is what you would probably draw considering perspective... but that's exactly why it is wrong!
You'll notice a line drawn behind the heads- this is the horizon. Everything points back to a point in the horizon - usually something at the back of the head when drawing someone facing you. But when it comes to drawing glasses, perspective does not apply unless the glasses is overly huge for the person's head or exaggerated.
In real life, the lens of the glasses themselves are small causing the wire frame extending to the ear to bend outwards as in the first example.NOTE: Though this may be the case, you can break this rule.. look below for reason...
The male on the left is an example of a improper way to draw glasses generally. The only way this would pass muster is if the lens are supposed to be bigger than is normal - for example, if the glasses was passed down and is too big for him, or he is unfashionable and prefers big glass lens than the more hip smaller glasses.
The female on the right the right way to draw glasses. In this case, though, it goes a bit further and the bend of the wire frame is exaggerated. Why, you ask? Look at her. What do you think about her and her character because of her glasses?
When I drew her, I had a character in mind who was a bit messy, and unkempt. Notice her ruffled hair and the glasses emphasize this fact even more. You can further speculate that she is a goody-goody student, a bit on the nerdy side, and a good-natured girl. Is this what you thought also?
Quarter ViewThe male facing the left has lens that is only a line. It is best to draw a thick line or else the lens will fade into the masses of hair.
Drawing quarter glasses is basically drawing parallel (lines like || that never meet) and perpendicular (lines like _|_ or a T that meet) lines.
Just draw a line going across the front of the face that will be the lens of the glasses.
Then, draw lines that are parallel to each other on either ends of the "lens" line.
Finish the picture with the shape of the glasses and erase the lines going across the face.
The male here has thick glasses- notice you can't hardly see the side of the glasses on his right side? It's being blocked mainly by the frame.
The female there has circular type glasses- the typical type of glasses that manga artist's draw. It shows the eyes openly unlike the glasses of the guys which hides them.
In another note, you can use glasses to emphasize character- for example, wouldn't someone wearing thick framed glasses seem like he is hiding something? Or maybe isn't that out-going? The female, with her wide and open glasses looks like the upbeat, out-going type, right? In effect, glasses are not just for decoration or for seeing purposes- it also adds character.
The only thing to know about side glasses is that you draw a long rectangular-type shape for the sides of the lens and a line coming from the lens to the ear.
Pretty easy huh?
If happen to draw a mask or uncommon glasses, remember that you have to draw the sides of the glasses accordingly as well! The samples I've shown are only normal-type glasses.
Also, if you happen to draw glasses with a sort of this lens like the girl over there, make sure that when you color it, it's not the lens you're coloring but the frame of the glasses! On a side note, remember to color the frames according to the character's personality! You'd think it'll be funny or weird if that guy there had a pink frame- wouldn't you?
There are five types of folds: Column fold, Inert Fold, Coil Fold, Drape Fold, and Interlocking Fold. Each has their own attribute and apply to certian situations. Here's the breakdown:
1. Column Fold
A column fold occurs when fabric is suspended from one point. They are cone and cylinder shaped. Whether the fold is hanging straight down or is blown sideways, if it's from one point, it's a column fold. Column folds examples can be found at shower curtains, window curtains, towels, table cover, and bed skirts.
To draw column folds, notice how it all bunches up at the one point and expands outwards. Make sure that if you have any patterns, it follows the fold.
Inert folds are inactive fabrics that is lying on a surface and is no longer being supported. Some examples of inert folds are bottoms of long curtains, clothes lying on the floor, and a bridal dress train.
When this occurs, the clothes may interlock as shown on the right hand side of the drawing. Inert folds also creates column-like bends on the clothes as shown in the other example below.
3. Coil Folds
Coil folds may be found wrapping around a cylindrical form. The coil shows movement of the form underneath it. They may be found around the arm, leg, and torso. Coils are most distinct when the cloth is tight around the form! If you have loose pants, for example, none or very little coils are present.
4. Drape Fold
Drape folds are like the column fold except, instead of one point, there are two points present to suspend the cloth. The two points create a "U" shape in between. Most obvious examples includes scarves, capes, hoods, and curtains swagged onto a curtain rod.
5. Interlocking Fold
Interlocking folds is when one fold fits inside the other and can be found when someone is wearing a scarf or has a rolled-up sleeve.
Clothing tops has four types: long sleeve (sweaters, dress shirts), medium (sleeve ends a little below or above elbow), short (t-shirts, baby-t's), and sleeveless (tank top).
Necklines varies quite numerously but a few include collared, school uniform (I have no clue what they are called...), v-neck, and the scoop neck. For tank tops, most have the simple string but there are variations like the halter top which goes around or ties at the neck. For the average tank top, note that it rests just at the joint where the shoulder begins.
Sleeves varies just as much as the neckline! The top two are a close fit sleeve and a loose sleeve. Note the difference in fold lines and curves. The next is a cut sleeve which can be seen in modern clothes for women for a dressy look. The other, meanwhile, is more on the casual side for the prevalent baby-t's, sporting an extra short sleeve.
Last, but not least, is the back of the top itself. Unlike the other areas of the top, the back remains fairly simple - a near exact version of the front except lines indicate the shoulder blades and the neckline is closer to the neck usually.
Tanks and other dressier tops, though, may have the scooped back exposing the shoulder blades and the spine.
As with any clothing, the best bet is to look through catalogue's and other references for ideas and variety.
There are five types of pants. The standard one, all the way on the left, is a common pant worn by males and females. The pant is pretty straight. The second, is a boot-cut pant which is a little wide at the bottom to allow for boots. The third is tapered pants that is also non-gender specific. The ends of the pant becomes smaller, following the line of the leg. Fourth, is the bell-bottom pants that has recently become fanshionable once again. The last pant, takes the bell-bottom further - called a flared pant.
Here we have the profile of the typical pants. Note how all but the standard pant follows the shape of the leg at least till the knee and either flaring out or continuing to hug the leg.
Pants are cut in different ways. Here are three common forms. The first is a classic-ruffed pants, which has folds at each side from the belt down. The folds a inwards and all that is viewed is the seam where it was stitched.
The second is the flat-front pant. This is a sleak looking pant which is form-fitting and quite contemporary looking.
Third, the reverse-pleat pant is like the first except the folds are inside-out. The fold is reminiscent of uniform skirts.
The first and third pant bulges out at the hip due to the folds, making the hip area look bigger than they really are. Most wear it just because it of that reason - mostly in the color black since it's "slimming".
As any right-thinking female out there, it's all about the length - from the belly-button, that is! Recent fashion has seen a popular trend with the "dropping" of the length in jeans. Normally, regular jeans button at the waist. New additions now go lower at the hips (called hipsters) which is about an inch from the belly-button and the ever-low, low-cut jeans. Low-cut jeans are for the daring girl as when she bends over, underwear is usually viewable at the backside (thong ta-thong-thong-thong) and from personal experience, even the butt crack and more... X_X
Males only have the option of the waist length jeans, unless they're wearing baggy jeans which can fall anywhere from just below the waist to their butt.
An important part of any pants, pockets has their own styles.
Beginning with the front pockets, there are four types. The first is the standard scoop found in a pair of jeans. Second is often used for dress pants where the pocket is or is almost seamless with the side of the pants. Third, is the small pocket also found in dress pants with just the lip of the pocket visible. Then there are pants without pockets also most often seen in dress pants and the differently designed pants such as one's that lace up at front.
Turning to the back pocket, typical back pockets are the "shield"-like shapes found in practically all jeans. Then comes the square with flap pocket usually found on cargo pants. Of course, there is the pant without the back pocket.
Then there is the cargo pant pocket. The cargo pant, as well as the carpenter pants, has an abundance of pockets - with two additional ones at each side of the leg. Though some pockets are flat, normal cargo pants tend to have a fold at the middle. When someone stores something in it, it bulges out. Enclosures for these types of pockets range from velcro, buttons, and sometimes zippers.
There are a lot of pant variety out there, most of them for women. Pants with glitter, stripes, plaid, and even different cuts. Above, there is a wide leg pant similar to the traditional Japanese clothing and then there is the jumper. Pants may also have cuts at the side or the back for females.
To the right illustrates how pants lay or don't lay on the shoe. Wide bell-bottomed pants and tapered pants tend not to fold up unless it is really long. Pants tend to have a slight fold at the bottom unless it's baggy in which case, a lot of folds are present.
The key to drawing shoes on any foot is to determine the view (eye level, down view, etc.), what position they are, and what shoe the person is wearing. Below is a line of eye level feet in different positions. If you are uncertain how to draw the foot, check out the Feet tutorial.
The first row shows the most common feet positions from dead-on forward, quarter, and combination of forward & parallel, and quarter & parallel. Notice that the ankle height is high compared to the ground. This is great for drawing feet with heels. If you're going to draw feet with flat soles, just lower the level of the ankle compared to the ground.
Below it is a row of the same feet with shoes drawn on it. What you basically do is draw the foot outline, draw the shoe over it, and erase the foot outline. A closer example if shown below:
Views of the foot is not limited to eye level and can come from above. Here we have two other views generally drawn from an angle and straight down view.
Once you get the hang of these three factors, drawing any shoe is a cinch!
Weapons vary from sharp metallic objects to dull-edged staffs. (Modern weapons excluded...) The most important info you need to know about weapons is that they are mainly rigid. If you look at the lineup above, most weapons are can be drawn using a ruler. Of course, there are some blades that are curved and for the machete, it's practically the whole thing!
The basic shapes of these weapons are as shown above. They aren't extravagant for a reason - they show the basic makeup of their type of weapon. From left to right: wooden staff, sword, axe, (magic) staff, rapier, machete, scythe (or sickle), and spear.
Weapons not drawn to scale with each other, btw.
From these basic shapes, you can add your own creative touches and embellishments. I recommend that you are at least familiar with these basic shapes before you begin changing them.
Regarding the size of a weapon, if you change and play with it, you get a different look for the same item. Look in part A on the right. The sword is much wider and and is a lot shorter than in the previous page. Considering it's new size, it would be called a "short sword" than just "sword" as they are much longer. The axe next to it also is more in the line of your average garden axe. The distance of the blade from the handle and its design was redone. Even though they are the same weapon, they are different.
I must mention that one of the most popular trends these days is to "supersize" small weapons into big, huge hunking ones. If you've never seen one before (^_^;... just think of a shuriken drawn much larger and is basically the same height as the person wielding it.
Design is one of the most obvious effects that seperates your own weapons from another artists weapons. Section B in the drawing above shows various designs based on the base weapons in the past page.
The scythe, for example, is much more stylistic and has more character than the base weapon. With just a few bends on the blade, an attachment from the blade to the handle, and even the slight bend of the handle gives it that distinct look.
You don't have to make something as completely different from the base form. Even simple additions as the grain and wear of the wood to a staff adds character. Just a slight change of a swords handle from cloth wrapped to coil wrapped adds that slight difference. The end of a magical staff is all you really need to change, for instance, to make that difference.
Point of View
One of the most crucial part of drawing weapons is drawing them in different points of view. When drawing anything, point of view is always there whether it is obvious or not.
To the left shows a sword at different points of view. The center is a sword as it would be viewed at eye level, or from the top down. The others are how it would look in other angles.
Notice that at angles, space changes from thin to wide affecting how a weapon is drawn - thinner handle and wider blade tip. For more info on perspective, check out these other tutorials: One Point, Two Point, Three Point Perspective (tutorials being re-done. Will be linked when completed. ^_^).
Weapons in Action
One of the most fun part of drawing weapons is when they are in the thick of battle! The quickest way to draw a weapon moving is to draw motion lines. Motion lines are basically just several lines drawn from the object moving to whatever direction it was moving from.
For instance, the drawing to the right has motion line coming off the sword and to the left. This makes the sword look as it is being swung from left to right. Note that the motion lines have a bit of curve to it making the swing of the sword at an arc. If the sword was moving horizontally, left to right, the lines would also be moving from left to right, horizontally.
The other way to show a weapon in action is to exaggerate and "move" its physical shape by curving it, usually in an arc, as well as the motion lines right after it.
Above are two examples on this method at two different angles. Looking at the two, the motion lines may vary from just the end of the weapon itself or to include surrounding areas as in the case of the first picture.
There are some people who just use a "streak" effect when drawing weapons in motion. The "streak" is like those in popular pictures of cities and vehicles in motion. All that remains are lighted lines. Another way to think of it is an after image. When the item moves too quickly for the eye and it leaves an image "imprint" of where it was before. If this sounds like mindless babbling - then forget I mentioned it.
And that is pretty much it to weapons! All that remains is being able to draw different types of weapons - axes, staffs, etc. - and all you really need is a ruler and some imagination for that.
Lets start of the reference section with swords, since they're so popular. Instead of showing the full sword, I focused on the hilts of various types swords to give you some detailing ideas.
There are various English swords from Hunting Swords, Broadswords, Rapiers, Backswords, and Cross-hilted Swords. Some of these are rather fancy and some are plain. Remember, what's important is that you take some ideas and features of the sword you like and imcorporate it into your own weapon and make it your own!
The following are dagger hilts, specifically called Gunner's Dagger.
Moving on to a different pace, here are some bows from various cultures. You may notice that most use double string with a patch or similar in the middle to pull back the arrow.
More detail on certain bows:
5. Brazil - H-shaped cradle
6. Paraguay - Woven pouch
7. Burma - Attached handgrip
8. Burma - Assymetrical bamboo bow, the width of the bamboo staff serves as a spacer for the double string
9. Cochichina - Assymetrical reflex bow and ivory cradle wedged into the spilt rattan string
10. Siam - Double bow and "window" construction
11. Chinese - Pellet-bow
Here are other various weapons you can use as reference.
وهكذا أكون قد انتهيت من اضافة الدروس على أمل أن تحوز على اجابكم أنتظر ردودكم وتطبيقاتكم...
أعزائي لقد بذلت جهدا مضنيا لإضافة تلك الدروس فإذا كان لديك دروس فأرجوا إدراجها.....أخوكم ... HaMaDaH
أرجوا تثبيت تلك الدروس الخاصة برسم الكارتون ودرس رسم الأجسام البشرية..........وشكرا...........
كلمتان ثقيلتان في الميزانحبيبتان إلى الرحمنسبحان الله و بحمدهسبحان الله العظيم
ههههههههههههه طلتك ظريفة كتير شكرا على هذه الطلة